YOUR NEW PET

Welcome to the wonderful world of pet parenthood! Whether you’re bringing home a playful puppy, a curious kitten, or a loyal adult companion, caring for a new pet is a rewarding journey filled with love, learning, and adventure. This packet is designed to guide you through the basics of responsible pet ownership, offering helpful tips, essential resources, and answers to common questions. From nutrition and safety to bonding and training, we’re here to support you every step of the way. Let’s make your pet’s transition to their new home as smooth and joyful as possible—because a happy pet means a happy family.

Key Factors for Choosing a Veterinarian:

Accreditation & Reputation: Check for American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) accreditation and read reviews to gauge the quality of care.
Location and Hours: Ensure the clinic is conveniently located and offers hours that match your schedule.
Emergency Coverage: Ask if the clinic handles emergency cases after hours or where they refer.
Services Offered: Confirm they provide necessary services such as diagnostic equipment (X-rays, ultrasound), dentistry, and specialized care if needed.
Cost & Communication: Inquire about fees, payment policies, and whether the veterinarian’s treatment philosophy aligns with your own.

Steps for Evaluation:

Ask for Referrals: Consult friends, family, or local community groups for recommendations.
Visit the Practice: Schedule a visit to tour the facility, meet the staff, and check for cleanliness.
Evaluate Staff: Ensure the team is friendly, knowledgeable, and communicates well.
Confirm Qualifications: Verify the veterinarians are licensed and have experience with your type of pet.

Key Questions to Ask:

Are you American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA)-accredited?
How are after-hours emergencies handled?
What services are available on-site?
What are your payment options or do you accept pet insurance?
Can I request a specific veterinarian?

Key Vaccination Guidelines

Puppies & Kittens: Initial series of core vaccines (DHLPP for dogs, FVRCP for cats) starts at 6-8 weeks, with boosters every 2–4 weeks until at least 16 weeks of age.

Adult Pets: A booster is required roughly one year after the final dog/kitten shot. Subsequent boosters for core vaccines are often spaced 3 years apart, while some non-core (lifestyle) vaccines require annual renewal.

Core vs. Non-Core: Core vaccines (Rabies, Distemper) are essential for all pets. Non-core vaccines (Bordetella, Lyme, Lepto, FeLV) are based on lifestyle, such as boarding or outdoor access.

Shelter/High-Risk Animals: Often require specialized, more frequent, or earlier schedules due to higher exposure risk.

Best Practices for Scheduling

Consult Your Veterinarian: Establish a customized plan based on your pet’s age, breed, health status, and lifestyle.

Avoid Over-Vaccinating: Utilize antibody titer tests to check immunity levels for certain diseases instead of automatically boosting, particularly for adult pets.

Prepare Your Pet: Keep your pet calm, avoid feeding a large meal right before, and bring previous medical records to the appointment.

Schedule Appointments Promptly: Ensure booster shots are not delayed to maintain consistent immunity.

Typical Dog/Kitten Schedule

6–8 Weeks: 1st DHPP (dog) or FVRCP (cat), Bordetella.
10–12 Weeks: 2nd DHPP/FVRCP, Lepto/Lyme (optional).
14–16 Weeks: Final DHPP/FVRCP, Rabies.
1 Year: Boosters for Rabies and Core Vaccines.
Every 1–3 Years: Adult boosters.

Preventatives and Why You Need Them…..

Heartworm and flea/tick prevention is one of the most important habits to build as a new pet parent. Heartworms are spread by mosquitoes and can quietly damage your dog’s heart and lungs for months before you see any signs. Treatment is tough on dogs and very expensive—but a simple monthly preventative can stop heartworms from developing in the first place.

Fleas and ticks don’t just cause itching. They can spread serious diseases, lead to skin infections, and quickly infest your home, biting you and your family too. Keeping your dog on vet-recommended flea and tick prevention year-round helps protect your dog’s health, your home, and your wallet.

Think of these preventatives like basic seatbelts for your dog’s health: small, regular steps that prevent big, scary problems later.

Low-Cost Clinics:

FACE Low-Cost Clinic

(317) 638-3223

IndyHumane Low-Cost Clinic

spayneuterhelp@indyhumane.org

Allcare by Noah’s

3825 W. Washington St

Indianapolis, IN 46241

317-481-1738

West Michigan St. Vet Clinic

3811 West Michigan Street

Indianapolis IN 46222

317-757-5077

Thrive Affordable Pet Care

1691 Mills Drive

Whitestown, IN 46075

317-245-6075

Pet Food Pantries:

FIDO Pet Food Pantry

1505 N. Sherman Dr, Indianapolis, IN 46201

317-221-1314

The Stable Pet Food Pantry at the Church of the Nativity

7300 Lantern Rd. Indianapolis, IN 46256

317-849-3656

Training Resources:

DOGS:

Connie Swaim Canine Behavior Services at https://connieswaimcaninebehaviorservices.com/
Kristen Board at perkedearstraining@gmail.com
Andrea Burggrabe at ispeakwoof.net
Emilea Dawn Byrum at maggiesfoundationdogtraining@gmail.com
Uptown Pup at uptownpupindy.com
Zionsville Country Kennels at zionsvillekennel.com
Indianapolis Animal Care Services also offers a “Starting off on the Right Paw,” program, which hosts a free class for new adopters to learn about bringing a new pet home. Check out their Facebook for dates: https://www.facebook.com/IndianapolisAnimalCareServices/
Fear Free Happy Home Training (Virtual)
Basic Training and Behavior Support Facebook Group

CATS:

Check out the Jackson Galaxy Project for help with any cat behavior issues.

Crate Training:

Initial Steps: Positive Association

Place the Crate: Put the crate in a common area, such as the kitchen or family room.
Make it Comfortable: Add a soft blanket or bed.
Introduce Gently: Leave the door open so the dog can explore. Drop treats or toys inside to encourage entry, never forcing them.
Feed Inside: Serve meals in the crate to create a positive association

Building Duration

Close the Door: Once comfortable eating inside, close the door while they finish their meal, then open it before they finish.
Gradual Increase: Slowly increase the time the door is closed, moving from seconds to minutes.
Practice Leaving: Sit with the dog in the room, then gradually start leaving the room for a short period.

Important Tips

Never Use for Punishment: The crate should be a happy, safe space, not a place for discipline.
Remove Collars: Remove collars or tags that could get caught in the crate.
Wait for Calm: Only let the dog out when they are quiet, not while whining or scratching.
Use High-Value Items: Give special, durable toys like a KONG filled with treats while in the crate.

Potty Training Dogs (Info Thanks to Chewy):

House-training, aka potty training or housebreaking a dog, is an important part of basic dog training. Everyone—whether two- or four-legged—is happier when a dog knows the rules about where and when to do their business. So, how do you potty train a dog?

As you work on potty training for a dog, keep in mind that it’s natural for young dogs to view the whole world as one giant potty area. Potty training is a process that takes both time and patience, but you and your dog can master this important task.

So, how long does it take to potty train a dog? That largely depends on how consistent you are and how long your dog can hold it. (Small breed puppies typically have a harder time holding it than large breed puppies, for example.)

Take Your Dog Out at Least Once Every 30 Minutes

Take your dog out on a leash. Being on a leash helps your dog learn to potty on leash in general, which is useful because you’ll probably want your dog to potty on walks at some point.

It also keeps your dog from running around and getting distracted by all the interesting things outside, so they can focus on finding a place to eliminate.

Stand Still in a Designated Potty Spot

Stand still in one spot, in an area where it’s OK for your dog to potty. Quietly watch your dog for five minutes.

By standing still, you keep your dog in a small enough area that they will get bored with exploring fairly quickly and focus on pottying faster.

By keeping quiet, you help your dog focus on pottying rather than interacting with you.

Reward Your Dog After They Potty

If your dog eliminates within five minutes, it’s time to celebrate! Break out the treats and give them lots of verbal praise.

Wait until your dog has finished pottying to do all this, of course. You don’t want to interrupt them, only to have them finish that potty indoors!

If your dog does not pee or poop within five minutes, that’s OK. Take them back inside to a confinement area, such as a crate or pen, for 10 to 20 minutes. After 10 or 20 minutes, go back to Step 1.

Don’t Confine Your Dog Immediately After They Potty

Avoid the common mistake of confining your dog right after they potty. If you bring the dog back to their confinement area right after a successful mission, they learn that pottying ends the fun. Then they may start to wait longer and longer to potty, which is the opposite of what you want, right?

Instead, have some fun time to celebrate their potty success. This can take place outdoors if it’s a safe area to be off-leash (and if your dog likes being outdoors), or indoors under supervision if being outdoors isn’t an option (or if your dog doesn’t want to stay outdoors).

Giving your dog an off-leash fun time once it pees or poops teaches it that pottying leads to more fun.

Confine and Supervise Your Dog While Indoors

Until your dog is fully house-trained, make sure your dog is always either managed or supervised.

Managing your dog can mean several things:

Crating your dog in a dog crate
Confining your dog to a small area using dog gates, a pen, or a tether

Each of these options encourages your dog to hold it because they don’t like to play where they’ve pottied. Plus, it helps keep messes contained.

Supervising your dog is more involved than you may think. This means you’re actively watching your dog—not just sitting in the same space as they are. To effectively supervise your dog, you should keep an eye on them and interact with them consistently. This helps you notice their cues that it’s time for a potty break, which may include:

Squatting
Sniffing at the ground
Circling
Fidgeting
Whining
Pacing

The same is true for outside supervision. Without watching your dog at all times, you may miss it when they pee or poop—and waste an opportunity for positive reinforcement.

Repeat These Steps Throughout the Day

Give your dog lots of chances to potty in an appropriate potty area. Then use positive reinforcement (treats, play, praise) to encourage your dog to keep pottying in those areas.

The more times your dog gets it right (and the fewer times your dog has an accident), the faster your dog will learn the routine.

Meeting your Current Dog:

Thinking about getting another dog or setting up dog playdates? For many dogs, that’s great! Dogs are social and often like being with other dogs when they meet the right way. Friendly dogs may bounce back from a rough first hello, but shy dogs can stay scared after a bad start. In this guide, we’ll show you how to introduce dogs so they feel safe and have fun together.

Get Your Supplies Ready

Before the dogs meet, gather these things:

Two adults (one for each dog)
Collar or harness for each dog
Leash for each dog
Small, soft treats cut into tiny pieces
A neutral place to walk (somewhere new to both dogs, with things to sniff)
A fenced yard in a neutral area (if you have one)
Towels or mats for the dogs to lie on (optional)

These will help keep both dogs safe, calm, and happy during their first meeting.

Do a Towel Switch (Optional)

Dogs learn a lot from smells. A new dog’s smell can feel strange or scary at first. Letting them smell each other before they meet can help them feel calm.

Put a towel in each dog’s bed.
Let each dog sleep on their towel for a night or two.
Then switch the towels, so each dog lies on the other dog’s towel.
Keep trading the same towels for a few days without washing them.

If you can do this before they meet, it can make the first meeting easier and less scary for both dogs.

Meet in a New Place

Dogs do best when they meet in a place that is new to both of them.

Don’t meet at either dog’s home. Dogs can be bossy in their own space.
Pick a calm, new place with grass, bushes, and lots to sniff.
A quiet street or park in a new area is a good choice.

First, you’ll use this new place for walking and meeting. Later, if they get along, you can walk them together to a home or fenced yard nearby.

Take the Dogs for a Long Walk

Go to the new place with both dogs.
Start on opposite sides of the street.
Walk in the same direction so the dogs are side by side but far apart.
When a dog looks at the other dog, give a treat. This helps them feel happy and calm.

Keep walking until both dogs care more about treats than the other dog.

Then let one dog walk about 20 feet ahead.
Cross the street so both dogs are on the same side, still about 20 feet apart.
Keep walking and giving treats when they look at each other.

If both dogs stay calm:

Turn around and walk the other way, so the front dog goes in back and the back dog goes in front.
When they can do this calmly, they’re ready for the next step.

Tip: If you drive there, park in different spots so you don’t bring the dogs too close too soon.

Let the Dogs Do Quick Sniffs

Now the dogs can get a little closer.

Let the dog in back walk up to the dog in front.
Let them sniff the other dog’s back end for about 3 seconds.
While this happens, the person with the front dog should give that dog treats to help them feel calm.
After 3 seconds, call them away (you can use a treat).

Then:

Switch sides and let the other dog do the sniffing.
Give the dog being sniffed more treats.

Do this 3 times, with short, 3-second sniffs each time.

Stop and go back to the walking step if you see signs the dogs are worried, like:

Hiding or cowering
Staring hard at the other dog
Ears flat
Fur standing up on their back

These signs mean they need more space and time.

Let the Dogs Say Hello

Now the dogs are ready to meet more closely.

Stand about 15 feet apart and let the dogs face each other.
If they look calm (not stiff, not staring), take a few steps closer with loose leashes.
Give each dog treats so they don’t rush.

When they are close enough to touch and stay calm:

Let them greet for about 3 seconds.
Then walk past each other and call them away with treats.

Do this 3 times.
Keep the leashes loose (shaped like a “U”). Tight leashes can make dogs upset. If a dog pulls or looks stiff, go back to the sniffing/walking step.

If both dogs stay relaxed, you can walk side by side with both handlers next to each other. Give treats and let the dogs sniff the ground and pee where the other dog did. If either dog gets stiff or pulls hard, go back a step.

Move to a Yard or House and Drop the Leashes

Next, go to a home or fenced yard so the dogs are safe and can’t run away. Bigger is better. Put away toys, food, and water bowls so they don’t fight over stuff.

When you get there:

One person and dog wait about 15 feet from the door.
The other dog goes in first, walks to the far end, and gets treats.
- If it’s one dog’s house, let the guest dog go in first.
Then the second dog comes in and stops near the door, also getting treats.
Walk the dogs around, give treats, and let them sniff until they care more about you and smells than each other.
Repeat the steps you did before:
- Walk in the same space
- Short rear-end sniffs
- Quick “flyby” greetings

If they stay calm:

Drop the leashes and let them drag on the ground.
Let the dogs walk around and greet.
Let them play or sniff for about 30 seconds, then call them away and give treats.
Then let them go back to wandering and greeting.

If you see any tension (stiff bodies, hard staring, growling):

Call the dogs to you right away.
Use the leashes to gently pull them apart if needed.

If they stay calm, slowly let them play together longer, up to 10–15 minutes.

If both dogs are still relaxed, great job! You’ve done a good first meeting. Keep practicing these steps until there are no signs of fear, stress, or anger when they are together.

If It’s Just a Visit

Each time they see each other again:

Start with a short walk together.
Then walk them into the house (guest dog goes in first).
Inside, do more on-leash walking, sniffing, and short greetings.

Keep doing this until both dogs are always calm together. Some dogs get comfy in a day or two. Others may need weeks or months. Go at their pace. Rushing can make things worse.

If the New Dog Is Moving In

When a new dog joins your family:

Keep the dogs in separate rooms most of the time at first.
Only have them together when you can watch them.
When they’re together, remove toys and food so they don’t fight over them.
After the first meet, take the old (resident) dog on a walk and let the new dog explore the house alone.
Then switch: Walk the new dog and let the old dog explore the house with the new dog’s smell in it.
At meal time, separate them with a gate or door so they eat safely.
Keep their time together short (no more than 15 minutes) for the first week, with leashes dragging just in case.
If things go well after about a week, you can take the leashes off and let them be together longer.
When you leave the house, keep the dogs separate for at least the first few weeks for safety.

Introducing your New Dog to Friends and Family:

Introduce a new dog to children by ensuring a calm environment, allowing the dog to approach first, and strictly supervising all interactions. Keep the dog leashed initially, encourage gentle petting on the chest or back rather than the head, and use treats to create positive associations. Teach children to avoid hugging, chasing, or disturbing the dog while it eats or sleeps.

Preparation and Initial Meeting

Calm Environment: Introduce them in a quiet, neutral area to avoid over-excitement or territorial behavior.
Leash Safety: Keep the dog on a leash for the first interaction to maintain control.
Let the Dog Approach: Instruct children to stand still and let the dog come to them to sniff, rather than rushing toward the dog.
Controlled Interaction: Use high-value treats to create a positive experience, having children offer treats from an open palm.

Separation Anxiety:

Rule Out Medical and Other Causes

Before calling it separation anxiety, talk to your vet if:

The behavior is new or suddenly worse
There’s panting, drooling, vomiting, diarrhea, or accidents only when alone
Your dog is older or has other health changes

Pain, urinary issues, or cognitive changes can make being alone much harder. Your vet can also help you decide if medication or supplements should be part of the plan.

Make “Alone Time” Very Small at First

Dogs with separation anxiety often panic because:

“Alone = scary, forever, I don’t know if you’re coming back.”

You want to teach:

“Alone = short, safe, and boring. You always come back.”

Start tiny:

Practice very short absences:
- Step outside the door for a few seconds.
- Come back before your dog panics.
Slowly build up the time (seconds → minutes → longer).
If your dog cries, paws, or howls:
- You went too fast. Go back to a shorter, easier step.

Think “physical therapy,” not “boot camp”: slow, steady progress.

Give Them Something Great Only When You Leave

Make your exit the start of something awesome, not the start of misery.

Use:

A stuffed, frozen Kong (kibble + wet food or a vet-approved filling)
A lick mat with peanut butter (xylitol-free), yogurt, or canned food
A chew (safe, vet-approved) for moderate chewers

Rules:

These special items only appear when you leave or practice leaving.
When you come back and they’re done, quietly pick up what’s left.

This helps your dog think:

“Oh, you’re leaving? That means snack time.”

Don’t Make Hellos and Goodbyes a Big Deal

Big, emotional exits and entrances can increase anxiety.

Before leaving:
- Keep it calm and boring. No long hugs, no “I’m so sorry!” speeches.
When you get home:
- Walk in calmly.
- Put your things down.
- Then greet your dog in a relaxed, happy way.

You’re teaching: Coming and going is normal, not an emergency.

Create a Safe, Cozy “Alone Zone”

Many dogs feel better in a small, safe, predictable space, not with the whole house to worry about.

Options:

A crate (only if your dog is crate-trained and truly relaxed in it)
A gated room (bedroom, office, or quiet area)
Bed + water + safe chew + maybe a worn T-shirt that smells like you

Add:

White noise or soft music to cover outside sounds.
A predictable pre-leaving routine (pee break, treat, then settle).

If your dog panics in a crate (scratches, bites bars, drools heavily), don’t force crating—work with a trainer on a different setup.

Meet Their Daily Needs (Tired, Not Wired)

An under-exercised, under-stimulated dog will find being alone much harder.

Every day, aim for:

Physical exercise: walk(s) with sniffing time, play (fetch, tug, flirt pole).
Mental exercise: short training sessions, puzzle toys, snuffle mat.

Try this pattern:

Before you leave:
10–20 minutes of a walk or play + 5 minutes of training
→ then give a stuffed Kong as you go.

A dog who is pleasantly tired and mentally satisfied is more likely to nap than panic.

Practice “Micro-Separations” When You’re Home

Teach your dog that not being glued to you is OK.

Toss a treat on a mat or bed a few feet away.
Say “go to your mat/bed” in a cheerful voice.
Walk to another room for a few seconds, then come back.
Build up to longer stays on the mat while you move around the house.

You want your dog to learn:

“I can relax even when you’re not right next to me.”

Use Tools, Not Punishment

Avoid:

Shock, citronella, or “no-bark” collars
Yelling, banging on doors, or scolding when you get home

These don’t fix the fear; they just punish the symptoms and can make anxiety much worse.

Helpful tools:

Baby gates
Calming music/white noise
Cameras to record your dog when you’re gone (so you see real progress or struggles)
Vet-approved calming aids (pheromone diffusers, supplements, or meds, under veterinary guidance)

When To Call a Professional

Reach out to a fear-free trainer or veterinary behaviorist if:

Your dog hurts themselves trying to escape
There’s howling/constant barking most of the time you’re away
They won’t eat when alone (even high-value food)
You’ve tried basic steps for a few weeks with no improvement

True separation anxiety is a panic disorder, not just “bad behavior,” and sometimes needs a custom plan plus medical support.

Simple Starter Plan for This Week:

Talk to your vet if the anxiety is severe or new.
Pick one safe space (crate or gated room) and make it cozy.
Do 5–10 tiny “step out, step back in” practices per day, always returning before your dog panics.
Give a special stuffed Kong/chew only when you’re “gone.”
Add one extra walk or play session on days you need to leave.

Tips and Tricks for Barking Dogs:

Here are practical ways to keep your dog busy so they’re less likely to bark, especially from boredom or extra energy.

Start With the “Why”

First, notice when your dog barks most:

When bored or alone?
When they see people or dogs outside?
When you’re on calls or not paying attention?

If the barking is fear-based, pain-related, or suddenly much worse, talk to your vet or a trainer. The ideas below work best for boredom and extra-energy barking.

Use Food Puzzles and Chews

Give your dog a “job” with their mouth and brain.

Stuffed Kongs / Toppl toys
- Fill with kibble + wet food, yogurt, pumpkin, or peanut butter (xylitol-free).
- Freeze to make it last longer.
Snuffle mats
- Scatter kibble or treats in the mat so your dog “forages.”
Slow feeders / puzzle bowls
- Turn mealtime into a 10–15 minute brain game.
Long-lasting chews (safe, vet-approved)
- Bully sticks, dental chews, or other chews your vet recommends.

Use these right before common barking times (for example, when you start a Zoom call).

Play Brain Games

A tired brain is as quiet as a tired body.

Hide-and-seek with treats
- Put your dog in another room.
- Hide a few treats or toys around the house.
- Release them to “find it!”
Scent games
- Drop a small treat trail leading to a “jackpot” pile.
Training sessions (5–10 minutes)
- Practice sit, down, stay, touch, come.
- Reward quietly looking at you instead of barking.
- This builds focus and self-control.

Do a couple of short brain games daily, especially before times they usually bark

Give the Right Kind of Exercise

Under-exercised dogs bark more.

Walks with sniffing time, not just fast marching.
Fetch or tug in the yard or hallway.
Short training + play mix: 2–3 minutes of training, then a quick game.

Aim for a mix of:

Physical exercise (walks, play)
Mental exercise (puzzles, training)

Make “Quiet Time” Easier

Set up the environment so barking is less rewarding.

Block the view
- Use curtains, frosted window film, or baby gates to limit “window TV” (people/dogs going by).
Calming background noise
- Soft music or white noise to cover outside sounds.
Cozy “quiet spot”
- Bed or crate with a chew or stuffed Kong.
- Teach: “Go to your mat” = chill and get rewarded there.

Reward the Quiet, Not the Barking

Dogs repeat what works.

Catch your dog when they’re quiet and calm and:
- Gently praise.
- Drop a treat by their paws.
If they bark to get your attention:
- Briefly ignore (no eye contact, no talking).
- When they pause for 1–2 seconds, then mark the quiet (“Yes!”) and reward or give a toy.

This teaches: Quiet = I get what I want. Barking = nothing happens.

When to Get Extra Help

Talk to your vet or a trainer if:

Barking is constant, extreme, or suddenly much worse.
Your dog seems anxious, can’t settle, or destroys things.
The barking is linked to fear (people, dogs, noises).

There may be anxiety, pain, or a behavior issue that needs more than just entertainment.

Simple Starter Plan

Morning: walk + 5 minutes of training.
Before calls/quiet time: frozen Kong or puzzle toy.
Afternoon: short play session + snuffle mat.
Evening: chew or licking mat in a cozy spot.

Marking:

First, Rule Out a Medical Issue

Before calling it “just marking,” talk to your vet if:

The pee is frequent, tiny amounts, or your dog suddenly starts indoors
There’s blood, strong odor, or any signs of pain

UTIs, bladder issues, and other problems can look like marking. If there’s a health problem, training alone won’t fix it.

Supervise Like a New Puppy Again

Treat a marking dog like they’re not house-trained yet:

Watch them closely inside
- Keep them in the same room as you.
- Use baby gates or a leash clipped to you if needed.
If you see:
- Sniffing low along walls/furniture
- Circling, lifting a leg, or suddenly “checking out” corners

Calmly interrupt:

Say “Uh-uh” or “Let’s go!” (neutral voice, not yelling)
Take them right outside to their potty spot
Praise and treat if they pee outside

The more often they practice marking inside, the harder it is to stop—so close supervision is key.

Clean Old Marking Spots Perfectly

If they can smell old pee, they’ll often mark there again.

Use an enzyme cleaner made for pet urine (not just regular cleaner or vinegar).
Soak the area deeply according to the product directions.
Clean every place you know (or suspect) they’ve marked:
- Corners
- Table legs
- Sofa sides
- Doors and door frames

If possible, block access to repeat spots for a while with:

Baby gates
Furniture
Closed doors

Remove Triggers and “Hot Spots”

Common triggers for marking:

New items (bags, boxes, shoes, baby gear)
Guests’ belongings (purses, backpacks, coats on the floor)
Other animals’ smells (visiting dogs, cats, or their beds/toys)

Help your dog succeed by:

Keeping bags, shoes, and laundry off the floor
Putting guest stuff up high or in a closed room
Washing or removing items that have been marked

For new furniture or rugs:

Watch your dog closely around them for the first few days.
Keep them on a leash with you in those areas.

Increase Potty Breaks and Reward Outdoor Peeing

Sometimes dogs mark inside simply because:

They’re not getting out often enough
They don’t see a big difference between “regular pee” and “marking”

Help them choose outside:

Take them out more often (especially:
- First thing in the morning
- After meals
- Before guests come
- Before you leave
Go to the same potty spot each time
When they pee outside, quietly praise and give a small treat right away

This teaches: Pee outside = good things happen. Inside = no reward and quick trip out.

Manage New Situations (New Home, New Dog, New Baby, Etc.)

Marking often ramps up when:

You move to a new home
You bring in a new dog or pet
You get new furniture or rugs
A baby or guest arrives

In these times:

Use extra supervision and more potty breaks
Keep the dog on a leash with you in new or tempting areas
Don’t give full house freedom right away—let their “allowed zone” grow as they prove they can stay dry

Use Crates and Safe Spaces Smartly

When you can’t watch your dog:

Use a crate (if your dog is crate-trained and relaxed there), or
A small gated area with their bed and a chew

Most dogs don’t like to pee where they sleep, so:

Make that space comfy and calm
Take them straight outside when you let them out, and reward outdoor peeing

Avoid leaving them loose in the whole house if marking is still happening.

What Not to Do

These things can make marking worse:

Do not punish after the fact
- Rubbing their nose in it or yelling only makes them scared.
- They may learn to hide and pee where you can’t see.
Don’t rely on belly bands alone
- They can protect your furniture, but they’re not a fix by themselves.
- If you use one, still clean old spots, supervise, and reward outdoor potty.

When to Call in a Pro

Consider a positive reinforcement trainer or behaviorist if:

Your dog marks many times a day
There’s a lot of anxiety, pacing, whining, or destruction when left alone
Marking is linked to new pets or household changes, and it’s not improving

They can help you sort out:

House training vs. stress vs. territorial issues
A custom plan for your home and dog

Simple Starter Plan (You Can Try This Week)

This weekend: deep clean all known marking spots with enzyme cleaner.
Next 2 weeks: keep your dog in the same room as you or on a leash inside.
Every 2–3 hours: take them outside to a potty spot; praise and treat for peeing there.
When you can’t watch: crate or small gated area, then straight outside.
New items/guest bags: up off the floor or in a closed room.

Marking is very common in new homes and usually gets better with time, supervision, and good cleaning. Treat your new dog like a puppy for a while: watch them indoors, give lots of potty breaks, and make a big deal (praise + treat) out of every outdoor pee. If you’re worried or it’s not improving, your vet or a positive reinforcement trainer can help.